A food and drink publication.

Sunday, August 07, 2005

Make way for duxelles

I respect Andrea Immer, but I don't really like Andrea Immer. For starters, the master sommelier very nearly talks down to her viewers on her Fine Living Network show, Simply Wine with Andrea Immer. The perky Immer also praises boring, uninteresting wines, mainly because the wineries give her major access for her show. But what Andrea Immer attempts to do is to make wine accessible to everyone, so that you don't have to walk into a male-dominated, Bordeaux-laden wine shop unarmed. And that is to her credit.

To that end, she came out with a food-and-wine pairing-essentials book, Great Tastes Made Simple, in 2002. Amy picked it up at a Super Target during our trip to her hometown of Orlando, Florida in January. While we were driving down to the Keys and back, she read excerpts of the Immer book to me. The blurb that captured my attention was about duxelles. According to Immer on page 85:

"[Duxelles are] the ultimate trump card. It's also easy to make. Very finely chopped mushrooms are slowly sweated in butter with some flecks of shallot until the mushrooms are very tender, reduced, and concentrated. In addition to seasoning with salt and pepper (always!), a squeeze of lemon is classically added to kick up the taste. I liked to add a little bit of white wine or sherry earlier in the cooking, in lieu of lemon."

For whatever reason (probably because I became fascinated by Jose Andres' simple mushroom preparation at Jaleo), I forgot about duxelles completely until Thursday evening, when I found myself saddled with mushrooms that were about to go bad. So, I chopped the hell out of some creminis and put together a riff on Immer's duxelles, opting to use both wine and lemon. The end result smelled like a rich mushroom stock that reminded me of a cream of mushroom soup I used to eat at the American Cafe when I was 9 or 10, something that's now perfect with an Oregon pinot noir or in Jack Czarnecki's kitchen. Based on Immer's remark that she typically made a batch on Sunday and pulled from it throughout the week, I poured the duxelles into a plastic container for future use. But for what?

This morning offered up the answer. Amy asked me to make her an omelette for breakfast before she went off to work at the wine shop. She reminded me that Immer folded the "classic culinary cornerstone" into "an omelette or stir[red] them into scrambled eggs." I combined some of the duxelles with grilled green peppers and put them into an omelette. The result was a step away from the vieille-ecole matching of eggs and white truffles, earthy and rich.

Immer suggests using duxelles as a topping for hamburgers, but I'm thinking that I might use them as a soup base. But what else can I use them for?

3 Comments:

Blogger Blaise said...

I often use duxelles as the base for a Gorgonzola-cream sauce. It is wonderful over pasta or on top of beef under a layer of puff pastry. If you want a heavier flavor, add a bit of strong blue cheese to the mixture.

2:43 PM

 
Blogger Cookiedog said...

On a toasted baugette and in risotto.

8:57 AM

 
Blogger devin said...

https://peatix.com/user/4909067/view
https://my.desktopnexus.com/david001/
http://www.folkd.com/user/danimsmith
http://codepad.org/users/danim

3:46 PM

 

Post a Comment

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]

<< Home